Saturday, October 20, 2012

Eastern Europe 1976



Touring with the
American Choral Directors Association
 
By Dr. Robert E. Plucker

 

A 1976 invitation to join a People to People tour of Eastern Europe organized by the American Choral Directors Association was a big surprise to me. First, because as a choral director at a small community college, I could not pretend to be a key figure in American choral singing. Second, because I had not paid my dues in some time, and was sure I had been dropped from the membership roles. I was pleased, of course, to have received the invitation even though the trip to Eastern Europe would be at my own expense. As it turned out, Skagit Valley College picked up part of the tab.
Krystof Penderecki
The notion of touring with some of the fine choral directors in the nation made me think that this just might be an opportunity to realize a dream. To do some great singing with people who could sing at sight and who would have well-nigh perfect ears. I prepared for this by packing along all the extra weight of sign copies of a book of madrigals.

The itinerary for the tour was this: to Stockholm, Warsaw, Krakow, Prague, Belgrade, Dubrovnik, and finally, London. We were to visit school music classes, attend rehearsals and concerts of leading choral groups, and meet some of the fine conductors and composers of those countries. The most well-known of these was the great Polish composer Krystof Penderecki. They were all extremely friendly and hospitable to us; we had a great buffet lunch at the home of Penderecki and his wife, all twenty-two of us.

But the Polish travel was fun for another reason. We flew in Russian-made planes from Warsaw to Karkow, back to Warsaw, then on to Prague, Belgrade and Dubrovnik. At that time they did not have the enclosed, motorized boarding ramps that we have grown accustomed to. Instead, we were taken to the end of the runway on a small bus, and then were to wait there until the plane came so we could board by ladders. The flights seemed to be scheduled mostly in the early morning, and caused some grumbling during these longish waits.

But I saw this as an opportunity. My colleagues were startled when I called for madrigal singers, the set of madrigal books in my hand. Not many wanted to take part in this venture, but with the help of a lady from Salem, Oregon, perhaps six or seven people were persuaded to become madrigalistes. And thus was born the Early Morning Polish Airport Madrigal Society: EMPAMS.

This reticence to sing (making a public spectacle of themselves) was again demonstrated at the end of the trip when we were in London. We were to sit in on a rehearsal of one of London’s really fine choirs. We sat near the back of the hall while the choir was up in front. They were impressive, in part because they were singing some material they had recently performed in concert. I was quite taken with the effect of the alto section, half male and half female, but was a bit disappointed in the rather delicate, polite, careful overall sound of the choir as compared to the robust Slavic choirs we had heard recently.

At the end of the two and one half hour session (broken for a brew or two at the pub across the street), the conductor asked if we would like to join his choir and sing a Bach motet, one that every good choir director should know, “Singt dem Herrn.”


I expected that all twenty-two of us would leap up and clamor for a place to sit. How many actually made their way to the front? Two, and I was one of them. I had been watching the tenor section and had picked out a guy on the end who struck me as being the weakest, and could use the help of an (a-hem) experienced singer like me. Hah! He was fine, he had all the notes, sang them dead center on pitch with perfect rhythm and a truly good voice. He was a nice man, and had no conceited airs about him.


Back to traveling in Russian-made planes on Polish airlines, we found these prop-driven turbo-jet planes quite drab, noisy, and threadbare in the upholstery. The planes had narrow seats with minimal fore-and-aft space. One of our group, a frankly fat lady a couple of axe-handles wide, could not totally wedge herself into the seat. Getting out must have required super-human strength. I could not watch. One of these trips was livened up a bit by four or five Russian men who said in a heavy accent, that they had just received a contract to supply inflatable rafts to some Scandinavian country. They were celebrating pretty hard with a couple of open bottles being passed around. I was sitting right next to one of these noisy fellows who insisted that I needed a turn on the bottle as well. What could I do? Refuse? No! I upheld the honor of the United States and the American Choral Directors by a swig from the bottle every time it was passed around. Good thing it was a short trip.

Another episode from the ACDA tour took place during the time we were to fly from Dubrovnik back to Belgrade and then on to London. The wife of one of the choral directors must have had a lot of money of her own. When we first hit Belgrade she shopped and shopped for jewelry and other luxury stuff. Nothing new in that because she always shopped. She and her husband had to ship home several boxes of stuff from places we had visited. The worst was a strange multi-colored framework that rather resembled a lacrosse racquet confused with a bird-cage. It had to be more than six feet long, easy enough to carry, but taking up way too much space. She insisted that this be carried into the passenger compartment of this crowded plane, much to the discomfort and disgust of all. This same awkward object again appeared on the plane from London to New York, but fortunately nowhere near me. You wonder what her house must look like, with all these bargain “treasures.”

Some comments on communist conditions: This incident did not happen to me, but to three others of our party. They had gone sight-seeing in Krakow one afternoon, and having walked a goodly distance, plus being unsure of how to get back to the hotel, they decided to take a taxi. They found one, the driver wanted to know where they wanted to go; they gave him the hotel name. His broken English response, “I don’t want to go there.” My friends eventually got back, afoot.

I went into a Warsaw store expecting to buy a souvenir of Poland. I thought a necktie would be nice, so I asked the clerk to show me some ties. This was not a store where you wander about, selecting items from the floor and paying at a check-out stand. The clerk strolled back into the store, returning the one necktie. The implication was that this was the only tie he would show me. That tie or nothing.

In Prague, we had just come out of a meeting in a downtown building, and one of our guys asked our omnipresent tour guide (In Communist countries you always were supposed to have a guide) why there was old, falling-apart scaffolding on an adjoining building. The guide said he didn’t know, but it had been there for years. No one had ever given the order to take it down, so it had to remain, I suppose, until it fell down.
 
Warsaw, Poland
Stalin's Tower
 In Warsaw, a tall, towering building stood, probably still stands, a perfect example of clumsy, blocky, Stalinist kind of architecture. Since it was the tallest building in town, my friend and I decided to go in, and have a look at the town from the observation deck. We found that the building was said to be a “gift” from the Russians as a “culture center.” The Warsaw people hated the sight of it, we were told later. So up the elevator we went some twenty stories to the walk around the perimeter of the building. There were tables of literature (propaganda) on hand, and of course, a good view of the city, rebuilt from World War II. There were virtually no individual houses, all of them having been flattened in the war, but now replaced by the hideous brick four or five story apartment blocks. There was some lawn space, not many trees, and the scene was Communist drab and grey.

There was some background music playing, a kind of “elevator music” I thought, until I recognized the tune, “Georgia on My Mind.” One of our American songs playing in Stalin’s tower? Could this be a sly joke on the Communists, some Polish wise guy playing with the fact that Josef Stalin was born in Soviet Georgia?
 
Thanks to "Google Search" for these pictures of Poland.
Thanks to "Microsoft Word" for Clipart
Krystof Penderecki is still alive and you can find out more about him on his web page:


 

 

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