Friday, April 20, 2012

A NIGHT ON BALD MOUNTAIN

Or

(Why My Blood Pressure is so High These Days)

by

John Plucker
[Son of Dr. Robert E. Plucker)

            First of all, I would like to point out the little-known fact that I never supported an afternoon departure.  For entirely selfish reasons, I gently tried to persuade my father that it would be much better to head South at 3:00 on the following morning.  It is important to keep this fact firmly in mind for the rest of this narrative, regardless of any other dumb things I may have done in the next 24 hours.

            The weather was really quite balmy as we steamed south that day.  I was laid out in the cockpit on a heap of pillows, and was well on my way to an afternoon siesta.  I remember thinking that it was a shame that every time I went on extended sailing trips with my family I always ended up sleeping most of the time.  This all becomes very ironic in retrospect, of course.

            The weather went downhill fast as we rounded Seduction Point.  The sun went down and the waves came up in a matter of minutes.  Using a tiny triangle of the jib, we screamed across the main channel, where we hoped to find shelter in the lee of Sullivan Island.  There turned out to be no lee, and we turned due south, now going head to head with the seas.  Our progress slowed to a crawl, causing Dad and me to seriously discuss the possibility of turning back for Haines.  We decided to continue until we reached a safe anchorage or ran down to a half tank of fuel, whichever came first.

            I think we intimidated the weather with that little conversation, because both the wind and waves slacked off considerably at this point.  So spirits were high among both officers and crew as we headed for our anchorage at the South end of Sullivan Island.  In our defense, the Rock which we were cruising towards in our sweet ignorance was not on our chart, nor had anyone ever stopped to mention any navigational hazards as they extolled the virtues of this little cove.

(This story would be so much easier to write if I didn’t have to stop every paragraph or so to explain why we were the victims of many complex factors other than our own stupidity)

            Both Dad and I saw the depth sounder jump up to a depth of only 15 feet.  But in the time-honored tradition of never-cry-wolf, neither Dad nor I took the instrument seriously.  After all, this piece of junk had been feeding my family a line of crap for years, scaring us half to death with patches of warmer water and stray halibut.  This particular time, Dad responded by easing up on the throttle (which is nothing like what he would have done if he had truly believed what the depth sounder what reading).  I am ashamed to say that at that moment, I walked to the railing, peered into the water, and said in a predictably flippant way, “I don’t see any rocks.”

            Approximately five seconds later, we struck the Rock.  The entire boat lurched as six and a half tons of sailboat slammed up against an utterly stationary object.  Anyone who has ever grounded an expensive yacht knows how that single moment of impact turns your blood to ice for one eternal moment.  For everyone who has been so fortunate as to not wreck an expensive yacht, I can only say, try to image the way the driver of a car must feel when he senses his wheels begin to slip on ice as he rounds a corner at 70 miles an hour.

IT’S A BAD FEELING, I TELL YOU!!!

            So Dad and I spent the next hour or so in a more or less totally ineffectual effort to free Greta from the Rock.  As it turned out, all of our scurrying around was only paddling us farther and farther up that creek which we all know so very well.  There was no way in hell that we could have brought Greta out on the far side of the Rock; arse-end first was our only option.  We did not know this, so ended up doing everything in our limited power to work our keel farther up on the Rock.  At the end of the first hour, it had been established beyond the shadow of a doubt that the tide was ebbing, and we had a long wait ahead of us.  As a sign that we were resigned to our fate, Dad and I dropped the sails.  Our angle of heel remained the same, and morale (which I had previously estimated as being at rock bottom) dropped.  I turned off the depth sounder then, since there wasn’t really any question of how deep the water under our boat was at that point.

            Dad got on the VHS, calling for the Haines Harbormaster.  He couldn’t raise the guy for a while, but as soon as our predicament had been voiced aloud on the radio, the phone started ringing off the hook.  Boats up and down the Canal offered aid, advice, and general moral support to us.  Which was nice.  Eventually Matt Davis, my math teacher/captain/bro, hailed us from his gill-netter, the Windbreaker.  It was so good to hear his voice, my blood almost started to thaw.  When he offered to bring down some Root Beer and chips for the party, I laughed my first hysteria-free laugh of the entire ordeal.  Dad allowed as to how some company might be nice, and Matt and my sister Holly were steaming our way two hours later.

            While the tide was still ebbing, I jumped out into the water and shoved some fenders between the cruel rock edge and the hull.  I don’t know whether it did a shred of good, but I felt much better knowing that I had at least tried.  Finally, there was nothing productive left to do.  I became aware of this before Dad, and he walked aimlessly around on the walls until he started making me nervous, and I ordered him go read a book in the quarter-berth.  I had brought my Discman along, and listened to every single song on the Moulin Rouge Soundtrack.  It occurred to me that of all the people involved in producing that soundtrack, most likely none of them had ever been in my present situation, and how lucky they were too.

            The water continued to ebb from the Rock until we were lifted completely out of the water, and soon Greta was laid out on her side at about 50 degrees, her bow pointing slightly upwards.  The pair of pants I had worn into the water earlier that evening were hanging from the door of the head at a ludicrous angle, and Dad and I watched water stream off the cuff and splatter against the stove.  Now we could finally get a good look at the cursed Rock that had imprisoned us.  We were run up on the very corner of a gnarly looking reef about the size of the infield of a baseball diamond.  It was HUGE, covered with pointy outcroppings, and seemed thoroughly malevolent.

            So we waited, and watched, and worried, and waited some more.  Matt and Holly arrived on the scene around midnight, just after it had finally gotten dark.  Everyone except Dad was terribly disappointed that there wasn’t enough light for Matt to snap off a roll or two of embarrassing pictures.  My feeling was, seeing is believing, and I would never get the appropriate amount of sympathy without visual proof of what dire straits we were in.  But no pictures were taken that night, and as a result, I am still waiting for sympathy from my hard-boiled friends.
Sailboats look desolate when not upright in the water. 

            I didn’t sleep much that night, which came as no surprise to me.  As Greta had lifted out of the buoyancy of the water, and more and more weight came to rest on the Rock, both Dad and I fully expected the hull to crack under the strain.  Either the Rock would punch through the side of the hull  (in which case we would sink), or the keel would snap off  (in which case we would first capsize and then sink).  As I lay in the V-berth, I had been seized by a totally irrational fear that if I moved any part of my body farther towards the bow, the entire sailboat would lean that way like a teeter-totter, and some vital structure would finally give, and Dad and I would find ourselves treading water, hanging on to the remains of our beloved boat.  So I scrunched myself into as tight a ball as possible, and spent the rest of the night with my knees pressed firmly into my neck.  It is entirely possible that I drifted off for a few minutes every now and then, but for the most part, I remained wide awake, patiently waiting for the shit to hit the fan.

            (Incidentally, that little expletive was regularly employed on board Greta that day.  I’m quite sure that both Dad and I heard the other use the “S” word more in the space of those twelve hours than in all the previous years of our entire lives combined.)

            Surprisingly enough, the proverbial “S” never hit the “F”, and morning found Dad, me, and Greta relatively intact.  Matt and Holly were circling our Rock by 4:00 that morning, so Dad and I rolled off our respective walls and went topside to say hello.  High tide was scheduled for 5:32AM, and was only supposed to be four inches higher than the one during which Dad and I had run aground.  Dad was fairly pessimistic about our chances for rescue (although he didn’t share the full bleakness of his outlook with me until later).

            I took a realistic stance, and figured that there wasn’t much chance that the Windbreaker couldn’t drag us off.  In my mind, the only question was how much damage Greta would sustain as she was dragged bodily off those wicked rocks.  Even though Dad and I had very different attitudes towards the whole rescue operation, we were both champing at the bit to get things rolling.

            Matt and Holly had other ideas, it seemed.  They were frolicking about, exulting in their rock-less boat.  Being intellectuals (not sailors), they naturally assumed that they should wait until exactly 5:32AM to pull us off.  Dad and I, who were a little more in touch with how thoroughly bad our situation really was, wanted to get a towing line passed to the Windbreaker as soon as possible.  If Greta didn’t come off the Rock on this morning’s tide, we would be stuck there until the high tide three days later.  Both Dad and I knew that neither Greta nor we could survive another 72 hours on the Rock.  The best we could hope for at that point would be some compensation from the insurance company.

            Eventually I was able to throw the tow line from Greta to Holly on the Windbreaker.  The first time Matt put some serious tension on the line, Greta rolled hard left, and I could see the pain in Holly’s eyes as she shouted at Matt to stop pulling.  Suddenly I realized how tough the whole experience had made me.  Twelve hours ago, I would have cringed at least as much as my sister, but at this point, I was willing to do whatever it took to rip this fat cow off the @#*%&^ Rock!         

            Dad and I shouted down Holly’s pleas for mercy and Matt gunned the engine again.  Greta was lurching all over, pivoting in place, leaning way over, and flopping on the keel from side to side, but we weren’t making any discernable progress against the Rock.  Finally, on what must have been Matt’s eighth or ninth run, we broke free, and slid down into the water.  Horizontal had never felt so beautiful before.  There was a current pushing us towards the Rock, so Matt kept on the throttle, dragging us a few hundred yards out of harm’s way.  We were all so excited to be mobile again that I think Matt would have hauled us backwards all the way to Haines if Dad had let him. 

            I untied the towing line, and Dad tried out Greta’s engine.  The silver lining of this particular cloud seemed to be that our prop and rudder had been spared by the Rock.  Almost all of the stress had been taken by our keel, and I fully expected it to sink like a chunk of lead at any moment.  But it didn’t, and we made it back to Haines under our own power.

            Then a bunch more stuff happened, but it’s all pretty anti-climactic, so this is the end.

[Note: Photos by Jean E. Straatmeyer
Bottom photo of a beached sailboat after Hurricane Ike - Bolivar Peninsula]




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